Semlor
Imagine it’s Fat Tuesday (Fettisdag), the day before Lent begins, and you are visiting Sweden. Be prepared to experience Swedish food culture at its best. Head to the konditori (bake shop), take a number and stand in line. When it’s your turn, order an extraordinary Nordic pastry; a semla, and of course, a strong cup of coffee. Have a seat and observe the Swedes around you. They will demonstrate various ways to eat this stunning combination of soft cardamom bun, luscious almond paste, and a sky-high elegantly piped layer of whipped cream. In some places, the semla is placed in a bowl of warm milk where it becomes a towering island. This is called hettvägg, which directly translates as “hot wall.” Most Swedes do not choose hettvägg, but those who do, swear it is the only way to enjoy semlor and cannot be convinced otherwise.
As you look around you’ll see some Swedes lift the top off the semla and use it to scoop up the cream and almond filling before devouring the bun. Others will fork and knife the entire pastry as if eating a steak. Still others pick up the whole thing, open wide…and bite. This inevitably leads to whipped cream on the nose, but they never seem to mind.
This gorgeous confection is a national phenomenon steeped in irony and stories of the past. King Adolf Fredrik, who reigned over Sweden from 1751-1771, allegedly adored semlor so much that following a rich dinner of lobster, caviar, champagne and kippers, his dessert of 14 semlor led to fatal indigestion.
Intriguing history aside, it’s the irony and generosity of these buns that make me smile. First of all, you need to know that Swedes are extremely law-abiding people. They seem fond of following rules, including those surrounding food. Over the past several decades, I’ve noticed a greater emphasis in Sweden on eating healthier. For example, a few years ago coffee was always served with cream, and many sweets filled our plates at a coffee party. Sju Sorters Kakor, (“Seven Sorts of Cookies”), the classic baking book found in nearly every home, detailed the seven cookies and cakes required to adorn a proper fika table. Now, thin milk always accompanies coffee and “seven sorts” are a thing of the past.
Semlor consumption also has its rules. In the 16th century Swedes were allowed to eat semlor only on Fat Tuesday, a veritable feast before the fast. Some years later, the law relaxed and one could buy a semla every Tuesday during Lent. Apparently that was not enough, and eventually semlor were available every day during Lent. Now semlor fill bakery windows from Christmas until Easter. Supposedly Swedes purchase over 40 million semlor each year, bake 30 million at home, and on Fat Tuesday alone, consume 6 million. That represents a lot of cream, almond paste and cardamom buns eaten during the first quarter of the year, exactly when many folks join gyms aiming to shed any weight gained during the Christmas holidays.
Perhaps you see why the consumption of semlor makes me smile. It flies in the face of thin milk. Who needs seven kinds of cookies when one enormous semla is equal to at least eight? Beside the delicious taste of semlor, what I adore most is their surprising generosity! Yes, it is possible to purchase diminutive versions, but generally, these buns and their fillings are immense, owing much to their voluminous layer of whipped cream. This heavenly cream, nestled neatly between crunchy almond paste and a soft cardamom scented bun is an expression of abundant hospitality. I believe this is the kind of hospitality we are called to share with others.
My favorite experience of this year’s semla season happened while visiting my husband’s cousins. A 90-year old great uncle and his wife were invited to join our party. This tiny whisp of a couple came for coffee and semlor, which happened to be massive. While I could only manage a half, these elderly folks gladly devoured an entire semla each, deftly applying the “pick it up and bite” method. I was simultaneously amazed and amused to see how enthusiastically they responded to this expression of generosity. Watching them reminded me how important it is for us to care bountifully for guests with an open-handed welcome. Of course we may not always serve semlor, but as we welcome guests to our homes let us imagine what it’s like to be a guest and how good we feel when generous expressions of love and care are extended our way.
SEMLOR
¼ cup lukewarm water
1 T. plus 1 scant tsp. active dry yeast
¼ cup butter
¾ cup milk
⅓ cup unsweetened yogurt, (not Greek)
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. freshly ground cardamom
½ tsp. salt
3⅓ cups all-purpose flour (up to about 400g)
1 egg whisked with 1 tsp. water for egg-wash
Pour water into a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle yeast and a pinch of sugar over water and stir. Allow yeast to bubble. Place butter in a small saucepan. Add milk and yogurt to the pan. Stir together over low heat. Remove from heat when mixture is lukewarm. Add butter and milk mixture to the yeast in the mixing bowl. Add sugar, cardamom and salt. Stir. Add 2½ cups flour and stir with a wood spoon or a Danish dough hook until the mixture is smooth. Continue adding the remainder of the flour, mixing with a plastic bowl scraper as you continually rotate the bowl. This will form a stretchy, smooth ball of dough. When you poke it with your finger it should spring back slowly.
Place dough in a buttered bowl and flip it over. Cover with a tea towel and place dough in a warmish place until it doubles in size (approximately 45 minutes to an hour).
Gently deflate the dough and place on a lightly floured work surface. Divide dough into twelve even portions. If you want your semlor uniform in size, weigh your dough with a gram scale and divide by twelve to determine the weight of each bun. If you prefer smaller semlor, increase the number of buns. Roll buns very gently into balls using minimal flour to prevent sticking. Place buns on a baking sheet with space between each. Allow to raise for about 45 minutes.
Brush gently with egg wash.
Bake at 375 degrees F. for about 17 minutes or until buns are golden brown (remember, color equals flavor).
Filling
8 oz. almond paste
1 pt. heavy cream, divided
1 T. confectioners’ sugar
½ cup chopped toasted almonds, (optional)
confectioners’ sugar for sprinkling
Grate almond paste into a mixing bowl. Add about ⅓ cup unwhipped heavy cream to make a spreadable paste. If you prefer your filling runnier, add extra cream.
Stir in chopped toasted almonds if you like your filling crunchy.
Whip the remainder of the heavy cream with 1 T.
confectioners’ sugar until it holds peaks.
Assembly
Slice tops off the buns. Spread almond filling over bottom portion. Pipe or spoon whipped cream over the almond filling. Gently place tops of buns on the whipped cream and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.